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By L. S. anA M E. SWm 



GUIDE BOOK 



TO THE 



Mission of San Carlos 



AT 



Carmel and Montere}) 
California 



WITH A CONCISE ACCOUNT OF THE MISSION 

SYSTEM FROM THE BEGINNING AND A BRIEF 

CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE GIVING DATES OF 

PRINCIPAL EVENTS. 



B\) L. S. and M. E. Slevin 
Carmel, California 

1912 



Copyright 1912 
By L. S. Slevin 






©CI.Aai7ul8 




San Carlos Mission at Carmel 



Pref 



rerace 



In presenting this booklet to the public, we have endeavored to 
answer the many questions which have been repeatedly asked us in the past 
ten years and we trust it will be a help in giving an understanding of the 
various matters pertaining to the Mission of San Carlos. 

To those desirous of a further knowledge of the Missions we recommend 
the works of Fr. Z. Engelhardt, O. F. M., the noted Mission historian. 

L. S. and M. E. Slevin 



Page fo 



Chronological Table 

Giving Dates of Principal Events 



Dec. 1 6, I 602 — Sebastian Viscaino lands at Monterey. 

Feb. 5, 1697 — Jesuits in Spain are granted power to work among the 

Indians of the Califomias. 
Oct. 10, 1697 — Father Salvatierra sails from Mexico for Lower California 

for the purpose of founding Missions. 
Nov. 24, 1 7 1 3 — Fr.* Junipero (pronounced hoo-nep'ero) Serra born. 
Aug. 28, 1 749 — Fr. Serra leaves Spain for the College of San Fernando 

in Mexico. 
June 25, I 767 — King Carlos III of Spain expels the Jesuits from his 

domains and transfers the Missions to the Franciscan Order. 
July 1 4, 1 767 — Fr. Serra sets out for Lower California. 
Apr. 8, 1 770 — Decree issued granting the Dominicans permission to enter 

the field. Lower California Missions left in their 

hands and Franciscans proceed to Upper California. 
Apr. 16, 1770 — Fr. Serra leaves San Diego with cargo of stores for a 

new Mission. 
June 3, 1 770 -Fr. Serra founds the Mission of San Carlos at Monterey. 
Dec. — 1771 — Mission of San Carlos is moved from Monterey to Carmel, 

leaving the church there as the parish church. 
Aug. 28, 1 784 — Death of Fr. Serra and appointment of Fr. Paloii as 

President. 
Feb. — 1 785 — Appointment of Fr. Lasuen as President. 
Sep. 1 4, 1 786 — La Perouse visits San Carlos. 

* "Fr." is the abbreviation, used herein, for Fray or Friar, the title given to members 
of the Mendicant Orders. Secular priests and priests belonging to Orders other than the 
Mendicant, will be designated by the title "Father" or "Rev." 

Page five 



Dec. 2, 1 792 and 1 794 — Vancouver visits San Carlos. 

July 7, I 793 — First stone of the present Carmel Church laid. 

Sep. — I 79 7 — Present Church completed and dedicated. 

1 82 1 — Mexico secedes from Spain. 
Aug. 17, 1833 — Decree of Secularization which results in disbandment of 

the Mission system. 
Jan. 3, 1836 — Dana visits San Carlos. 

July 1 0, 1 846 — Upper California taken by the United States and the 
Stars and Stripes raised on the Custom House at Monterey. 
1852 — Tiled roof of Carmel Church falls in. 

1 868 — Father Angelo D. Casanova appointed pastor of San 
Carlos. 
July 3, 1882 — Formal locating of the graves of Fr. Serra and companions. 
Aug. 28, 1 884 — Carmel Church restored and re-dedicated. 

1893 — Father Casanova dies and Father R. M. Mestres is 
appointed pastor of San Carlos. 
Oct. 1 4, 1 902 — Hague Tribunal decides that Mexico shall pay interest 
due the Church. 



Pasc! 



The Beginning 



THE first religious to set foot on California soil were the Franciscan friars 
who sailed with Hernando Cortes, on his expedition of 1533. 

The founding of Missions, however, was begun by the Jesuits of Spciin, 
who m I 69 7, were desirous of working among the Indians of the Californias. 
They obtained permission from his Majesty to accept donations from those 
charitably inclined and with generous contributions, they in time acquired a 
considerable sum, which later became known as the "Pious Fund". 

On February 5, 1 697, under the Provincial Rev. Juan de Palacios, the 
Jesuits were granted power to found Missions on the peninsula of Lower 
California providing the country was taken possession of in the name of the 
King and that the Government would not be called on to provide funds. 

Father Salvatierra sailed from Mexico for Lower California on October 
I 0, I 697, landing at Concepcion Bay, October 1 5, where Mass was celebrated. 
This part of the country appearing unsuitable, they left for San Dionisio Bay 
a little further south where the soil seemed more productive. Arriving there 
October 19, a suitable place for a Mission was selected and possession taken 
in the name of Spain. It was named Loreto and thus was founded the first 
Mission in the Californias. With this beginning, the work of converting the 
Indians to the faith was continued and other Missions were gradually founded 
throughout the peninsula until they numbered about twenty, under the Jesuit 
regime. 

King Carlos III of Spain expelled the Jesuits from his dommns on June 
25, 1 767, they being accused, unjustly, of using the Missions to accumulate 
wealth for selfish motives, and numerous other crimes. 

After the expulsion of the Jesuits from Mexico, the Government 
decided to turn over the Missions to the Ffcuiciscan College of San Fernando 

Page seven 



in the City of Mexico. The appointment of a head to govern the Missions 
necessitated the selection of a man endowed with great executive ability as 
well as deep spirituality; such a one was found in the person of Fr. Junipe.ro 
Serra. 

Fr. Serra was born at Petra on the Island of Majorca off the coast of 
Spain, on November 24, 1713. His mental ability in theology and 
philosophy was so great that he received the degree of Doctor of Theology 
before his ordination to the priesthood. Wishing to devote his life to missionary 
labors, he obtained permission to work among the Indians on the western 
coast of North America, leaving Spain August 28, 1 749, and arriving at the 
College of San Fernando, January 1, 1 750. 

On July I 4, 1 767, Fr. Serra set out for Lower California accompanied by 
several other Padres to accomplish the work to which he was assigned. After 
many hardships and delays the party arrived at Loreto on Good Friday, April 
1, 1768. 

The Franciscans were not vested with temporal power as the Jesuits 
had been, which resulted in greatly hampering the work in hand as it was found 
that the savages were better reached through materieJ rather than spiritual 
means. Finding that the christianizing of the Indians under this system was 
proving fruitless, the Inspector General, Don Jose de Galvez, promptly 
restored the temporal power to the Missionaries. 

In 1 768, the Dominicans, in their apostolic zeal, petitioned the King 
to allow them some of the California Missions, claiming that the expanse of 
territory was too vast to be controlled by one Order. After much controversy, 
his Majesty issued a decree under date of April 8, 1 770, granting Fr. Juan 
Pedro de Iriarte of the Dominican Order, permission to enter the field. The 
arrangement of a division of the territory was left to the Superiors of the two 
Orders, same being amicably arranged as follows: The Dominicans were to 
take charge of the Missions already established on the peninsula of Lower 
California, while the Franciscans were to continue their work in Upper 
California, that is from the Mission San Diego northward, whereupon, after the 
formal transference of the Lower California Missions to the Dominicans, the 
Franciscans withdrew from that portion of the territory. 

Page eight 



Founding of the San Carlos Mission 



FR. Junipero Serra set sail from San Diego in the ship 'San Antonio" on 
April 16, 1770, with a cargo of stores for a new Mission. On the 
following day. Governor Portola with Fr. Crespi, soldiers and others set out 
by land. Both expeditions, in due time, arrived at Monterey, and on June 3, 
I 770, assembled under a widespreading oak where Mass was said. The 
religious ceremonies being completed, Portola took formal possession in the name 
of Carlos III, and the Spanish flag was hoisted and saluted. Thus was formally 
founded, the Presidio and Mission of San Carlos Borromeo, the second Mission 
of Upper California. Some rude huts, enclosed by a palisade, were constructed 
at once and these constituted the Presidio and Mission. 

The followmg is Fr. Serra's own account of the above proceeding as 
written to Fr. PcJoii: 

"On the 31st of May, 1770, by favor of God, after rather 
a painful voyage of a month and a half, the packet "San Antonio," commanded 
by Don Juan Perez, arrived and anchored in this beautiful port of Monterey, 
which is unadulterated in any degree from what it was when visited by the 
expedition of Don Sebastian Viscaino in I 602. It gave me great consolation 
to find that the land expedition had arrived eight days before us, and that Fr. 
Crespi and all others were in good health. On the 3rd of June, being the 
holy day of Pentecost, the whole of the officers of sea and land, and all of 
the people assembled on a bank at the foot of an oak, where we caused an 
altar to be erected, and the bells rung; we then chanted the 'Veni Creator', 
blessed the water, erected and blessed a grand cross, hoisted the royal standard, 
and chanted the first Mass that was ever performed in this place; we afterward 
sang the Salve to Our Lady before an image of the illustrious Virgin, which 
occupied the altar; and at the same time preached a sermon, concluding the 
whole with a Te Deum. After this the officers took possession of the country 

Page nine 



in the name of the King, our Lord, whom God preserve. We then all dined 
together in a shady place on the beach; the whole ceremony being accompanied 
by many volleys and salutes by the troops and vessels". 

Fr. Serra soon decided that the site of the Mission at Monterey was not 
situated to best reach the Indians and also the proximity of the Presidio 
was not favorable. Thereupon the zealous Serra, forgetful of his bodily 
infirmities, plodded over the hills on foot seeking a new location. He 
finally selected the site near the bank of the Carmel River, about five miles 
distant, where the Mission Church is now located. Here there was a 
good supply of water for the irrigation of crops which was not found in 
sufficient quantity at Monterey. He then left soldiers and Indians to cut timber 
and make other preliminary preparations while he journeyed on, founding other 
Missions. As these preparations required several months, the formal 
transference did not take place till December, 1771. 

A rectangular stockade of about 1 30x200 feet was formed wath heavy 
posts, inside of which were the simple buildings that served as the church and 
dwellings. The buildings were plastered and roofed with mud which was 
soon found to be inadequate to withstand the rains, whereupon a new church 
was constructed of lumber hewn from the pine and cypress trees which grew 
nearby in abundance. Tules were utilized for the roofing of the building. 
This building, however, was of a temporary nature as it was the intention to 
erect a church of stone as soon as practicable. 



Page ten 



Death of Fr. Junipero Serra 



AFTER visiting all the Missions in his domain, Junipero Serra returned to 
San Carlos in January 1 784. Being sorely burdened with infirmities and 

realizing that he was soon to meet his Creator he prayed that he might die 
at his beloved Mission of San Carlos, which prayer was granted. In August of 
I 784, he sent farewell letters to all his comrades, calling the Padres from the 
nearer Missions to bid them a last good-by. Fr. Palou, however, was the 
only one with him at the end and it will be best to quote his own words in 
regard to the last moments of this zealous priest. Fr. Palou writes: 

"He prepared himself for death by making a general confession as he 
had cilready done several times. Finding that the complaint in his chest was 
getting worse, and that he had some fever, on the 27th of the month he went 
on foot to the church. He there received the last sacred rites on his knees, to 
the edification of the people, and in their presence received the Holy Viaticum, 
as ordamed m the Roman Seraphic Ritual. When the ceremony commenced, 
the Father was on his knees, chanting with his sonorous voice, and to our 
astonishment, the 'Tantum Ergo'. In the same posture he gave thanks to our 
Lord; after which he returned to his room. At night he asked for the holy oils 
and repeated with us the Penitential Psalms and the Litanies. The 
remainder of the same night he passed giving thanks to God, sometimes on 
his knees, and sometimes sitting on the floor. He did not take to his bed, but 
was always dressed m his habit and cloak. At the break of day he asked me 
to give him the Plenary Indulgence, which he received kneeling. On the 
morning of the 28th he was visited by the captain of the barque, Don Jose 
Canizares, and chaplain. He received them sitting, expressing gratitude for 
their visit. He embraced the chaplain, giving thanks to God that, after 
traveling so much, they had arrived at last to throw a little earth on his remains. 

Page eleven 



A few minutes after making this remark he said that he felt some fear, end 
asked me to read aloud the recommendations for the soul, which 1 did. He 
then responded as if in good health, and exclaimed with delight; 'Thank God! 
1 am now without fear, and have nothing to dread. I feel better; let us go 
out.' He then arose, and afterwards sat down at the table and took a little 
broth. He then wished to rest, taking nothing off but his cloak. He laid 
tranquilly for a time, and then rested in the Lord. Without making any 
further sign he delivered his spirit unto the Creator, on the feast of Saint 
Augustine, Doctor of the Church. When the bells began to toll, the little 
town was m a state of commotion; the Indians cried, lamenting the death of 
their good Father, as likewise all the people, whether on shore or on board 
the ship. All asked for a remnant of the habit he had worn. They even 
went as far as to cut withm the church pieces from the habit in which Fr. 
Junipero died. Before death, he ordered (without letting any of those present 
know of it) the carpenter of the presidio to make his coffin. We promised, if 
the multitude would hold their peace, to devote a tunic of the deceased Father 
to scapulars for their benefit. Notwithstanding this, those who guarded the 
body in the church appropriated locks of his hair for keepsakes. This they 
were induced to do because of their regard for the departed. His funeral 
was attended by every one, whether on shore or aboard the ship, each one 
doing what he could in honor of the deceased Father. The captain of the 
barque utilized his artillery in conferring upon the deceased all the honors of a 
General, and the Royal Presidio of Monterey responded to the salute. The 
same marks of respect were repeated on the 4th day of September, with vigil 
and high mass at which the same people attended. Upon this occasion 
another clergyman, officiated, namely. Rev. Fr. Antonio Paterna, minister of 
the Mission of San Luis Obispo, who could not arrive in time for the funeral. 
And that everything said may appear of record, I sign this in said Mission, on 
the 5 th day of September, I 784. 

Fr. Francisco Palou. " 
He was buried as he wished in the sanctuary of San Carlos church by 
the side of Fr. Crespi, his colleague, who had gone to his reward January I , 
1 783. After Fr. Serra's death, Fr. Paloii acted as President of the Missions 
until February, 1 785, when Fr. Lasuen was chosen for the office. 

Page twelve 



Early Visits of Note to San Carlos Mission 
La Perouse's Visit 

THE first voyager having no connection with the Missions to visit San 
Carlos u^as Count Jean Francois Galaup de La Perouse, the eminent 
French navigator who landed at Monterey in the frigates "La Boussole " 
and "L' Astrolabe" on September 1 4, 1 786. His reception at the Mission 
may best be told in his own words: 

'The Padres of San Carlos Mission, two leagues from Monterey, soon 
came to the Presidio; as kind to us as the officers of fort and frigates they 
insisted on our going to dine with them, and promised to acquaint us in detail 
with the management of their Mission, the Indian manner of living, their arts 
and customs, in fact all that might interest travelers. We accepted with 
eagerness *** M. Pages wished to accompany us *** after having crossed a 
little plain covered with herds of cattle *** we ascended the hills and heard 
the sound of bells announcing our coming. We were received like lords of a 
parish visiting their estates for the first time. The President of the Missions, 
clad in cope, his holy water sprinkler in hand, received us at the door of the 
church illuminated as on the grandest festivals; led us to the foot of the altar; and 
chanted a Te Deum for the happy issue of our voyage. Before entering the church 
we had crossed a plaza where Indians of both sexes were ranged in line; 
their faces showed no surprise and left room for doubt if we should be the 
subject of their conversation for the rest of the day." 

La Perouse had sailed from Brest, August 1, 1 785, having been sent 
on a scientific and exploring expedition by the French Government. France 
had become awakened at the renown acquired by England in her maritime 
discoveries and wished to do her share in enlarging our acquaintance with the 
surface of the globe and its inhabitants. 

Page thirteen 



Captain George Vancouver's Visit 

Captain George Vancouver, the noted English navigator, sailed into the 
bay of Monterey on December 2, 1 792. Shortly after his arrival he visited 
the Mission of San Carlos accompanied by several of the Mexican officials. 
Here they met with a most cordial welcome, amid the ringing of 
bells, by Fr. Lasuen. A feast was prepcired for them, after which 
an exhibition was given by the Indians, showing their method of stalking 
deer. At the time of Vancouver's visit, there were about one thousand 
Indians at the Mission. On leaving he presented an organ to Fr. Lasuen. 
A drawing made by a member of the party, on a second visit in 1 794, is 
reproduced herein. The picture is described as follows: 

"The old church, partly thatched and partly tiled, stands on the left 
of the picture ***. Three bells hang on a frame raised on a stone foundation; 
a lofty cross, bearing a close resemblance to a modern telegraph pole rears its 
head near the centre of the plaza, and just beyond almost in contact with *** 
are the rismg stone walls of a new one. Beyond, on an eminence may be 
seen a corral for cattle, while at the right are the conical huts of the 
neophytes. This church, still to be seen on the banks of the Carmelo, was 
conr.pleted in I 797. " 

R. H. Dana's Visit 

Another noted visitor to the Mission of San Carlos was Richard 
Henry Dana, Jr., who, in the ship "Alert", arrived at Monterey on December 
29, 1835. This vessel was one of several which were sent out by 
Boston firms to barter with the Missions for hides, tallow, etc. Sunday, 
January 3, 1 836 being liberty day for the sailors, Dana, wnth other 
members of the crew, went ashore where they procured horses and rode out 
to the Mission at Carmel. 1 hey were most hospitably received and given a 
dinner consisting of beef, eggs, frijoles, tortillas and some "middling" wane for 
which the padre in charge would accept no remuneration. After their repast, 
they were showTi all the features of interest, which were graciously explained 
to them. 

Page louiteen 




ci a- 




Page fifteen 



The Secularization 



THE possessions of the Missions increasing and the great success of the 
Padres aroused the jealously of the secular and military authorities. 
As early as 1 787, Inspector Sola claimed that the Indians were ready 
for secularization and from that time until the decree of August 17, 1833, 
which brought the final crash, there were many agitations to bring forth the 
"Secularization of the Missions. * The Mission churches became parish 
churches and the Padres, parish priests. The Indians were to be given a 
small portion of land and were supposed to become self-supporting. 

As it was impossible to civilize a nation of savages in the short space 
of fifty or sixty years, the impracticability of this scheme soon resulted in the 
disintegration of the whole mission system. 

When it became known that the United States intended taking 
California, there was a great flurry. The Mission property, including churches, 
was all sold by the Mexican officials for a song, or given away. 

Without the guiding hands of the Padres, the Indians found 
themselves helpless and wandered aimlessly about, until now some of the tribes 
are practically extinct, while others are struggling for existence on reservations 
set aside by the United States Government. 

After the United States had taken possession, the courts, in order that 
justice should be rendered, returned the buildings and a very small portion of 
the lands to the Church. 

The church building at Carmel, afterwards having been left to its fate, 
was in ruins by 1840, and in 1852 the tiled roof fell in. 

After going through many vicissitudes, owing to political changes and 
other causes, the Pious Fund was finally confiscated by the Mexican 
Government. In later times, parties interested in obtaining justice, agitated 
measures to compel Mexico to turn over the proportion of the money due the 

Page sixteen 



Church in Upper California. On October 1 4, 1 902, the Hague Tribunal 
decided that Mexico should pay annually to the Catholic Church in Upper 
California, the sum of $43,050.99, Mexican, this being the amount of 
interest accruing from the fund, and this money is used in the cause of religion, 
as was the intention of the original donors. 



Page seventeen 



The Indians 



IN his original state, the California Indian is said to have belonged to a race 
of a low order. His food consisted of wild game of every descnption 
and even rats. Acoms were the principal vegetable diet. 

Before the coming of the Padres, he was very skillful in making baskets, 
mortars, pipes, etc., and under the Padres, he learned various trades, becoming 
remarkably competent in many lines. He was taught rules of cleanliness and 
also to clothe himself. 

The country around San Carlos Mission was inhabited by the tribes 
known as the Achastliens and Ecclemachs. It was not uncommon for them 
to reach the age of one hundred years and some were supposed to have lived 
to be one hundred and forty. When Fr. Serra died, 1014 Indians had been 
baptized at San Carlos and from 1 786 to 1 792, the Indian population 
numbered about 1 000. The extinction of these two tribes seems to be 
complete. 

The last Indian at Carmel was a Yaqui who was brought here from 
the South by the Padres in early days. In the early part of this year he was 
taken away and is provided for by the county of Monterey. He is supposed 
to be considerably over one hundred years of age and it is interesting to note 
that up to a short time ago, he enjoyed walking to Monterey and back, 
rubbing the soles of his feet with hot stones for quite a while, previous to his 
starting. 



righte 



Sketch of San Carlos' Life 



THE Mission of San Carlos or Carmel Mission, as it is commonly called, 
on account of its being located at Carmel, was named after San Carlos 
Borromeo (Saint Charles Borromeo). Charles Borromeo was bom at 
Arona, Italy, in October, 1 5 38, and was the son of Count Gilbert Borromeo. 
At an early age he entered the religious life and later became Archbishop of 
Milan. San Carlos died on November 4, 1 584, which anniversary is 
celebrated each year at the church at Carmel and is known as San Carlos 
Day, or the feast of San Carlos. 

On account of his piety and religious zeal, he was deemed worthy 
of canonization, this ceremony being completed in 1610. 



Page nineteen 



Locating the Grave of Fr. Junipero Serra 



AN event of great importance took place on July 3, 1882. This 
was the formal locating of the graves of Junipero Serra and the other 
Padres who were buried in the church of San Carlos at Carmel. 
In January of 1 882, preliminary work had been begun by Father 
Casanova, for the purpose of discovering the graves of the priests and 
Governors. Workmen were instructed to dig first, at the exact place which 
the old records give as the location of the grave of Junipero Serra: "In the 
sanctuary on the Gospel side, fronting the altar of Our Lady of Seven Dolors". 
At the depth of about three feet of the accumulation of earth overgrown with 
weeds, one of the men struck some redwood boards, under which were found 
large slabs which had the appearance of covering a grave, and this 
proved to be the case. 

Widespread notice of the intended ceremonies was given in the 
newspapers and at the appomted time several hundred people assembled at 
the ruins of San Carlos church. 

Father Casanova read in Spanish and then in English, the records of the 
burials, as follows: 

"Rev. F. Juan Crespi, born in Spain; died January 1 , A. D. 1 782, 

61 years old; buried near the main altar, gospel side." 

"Rev. F. Junipero Serra, D. D., President of all the Missions; born in 

Mallorca, Spain; died on the 28th of August, A. D. I 784, at the age 

of 7 1 years; buried in the sanctuary; fronting the altar of Our Lady of 

Seven Dolors, on the gospel side." 

"Rev. F. Julian Lopez, born in Spain; died here on the 1 5th of July, 

A. D. I 797, aged 35 years; buried in the sanctuary, on the gospel 

side, in the tomb near the wall on the left." 

Page twenty 



"Rev. F. Francisco Lasuen, vie. for second President of the Missions, 
bom in Spain; died here, and is buried in the sanctuary, on the gospel 
side in a stone tomb near the main altar, June 28, 1803." 

The stone slabs had been removed beforehand and a man then lifted the 
cover of each coffin, which were of unplaned redwood and in a good state of 
preservation. The remains were then viewed by the people. The skeletons 
were in a fair state, the ribs were in their natural position and the skulls 
unbroken. Some parts of the vestments were in excellent condition, a few 
pieces of them being taken and preserved by Father Casanova. 

The tombs containing the coffins are of stone and about eight feet 
deep. The tomb of the Fr. Serra was filled with earth to prevent any 
molestation, after which the stone slabs were replaced. 

The bodies of Frs. Serra and Crespi had been originally buried in the 
temporary church and in accordance with the custom, the remains were 
transferred to the new (or present) one, when it was completed. 



Page twenty-one 




Vancouver's Sl^elch of 1 794 at Carmel 




Page Iwenly-two 



Interior of San Carlos Mission at Carmel 



Description of San Carlos Church 

At Monterey 



PRESIDIOS were established for the protection of the Missions at 
San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco, and it 
was the intention for each to have its chapel and resident priest. 
The present church succeeded the original chapel. It does not seem to 
be clear as to when this church was built, but in 1855, Gov. Pacheco 
donated funds for its enlargement. The original building was extended 
in the rear and an addition built on each side, making the form of a cross. 

The church is built of stone which was quarried in the vicinity. It 
faces the bay of Monterey, on the north, which is about half a mile distant. 

The facade is elaborately decorated with carvings and has a niche on 
each side of the door. These niches were intended to hold statues but 
none were ever placed in them. Near the top is a carving representing 
Our Lady of Guadalupe. 

On the left corner of the building is the bell tower, having arched open- 
ings for the bells. The pyramidal tiled top is modern, having been added 
in 1 893. The pavement in front of the church is made of sections of 
the backbone of the whale (Monterey in the early days having been a 
whaling station). They are set in the ground in rows and the appear- 
ance is unique. 

In each of the side wings is an arched doorway of Moorish-Gothic archi- 
tecture. They are very elaborate, consisting of conventionalized scrollwork 
and probably reproductions, of a similar one in Spain. 

The interior is completely modernized, but there are many of the relics 
still to be seen. In the sanctuary are several chairs probably brought from 
the Philippines. They are made of teak and ebony with marble seats 

Page twenty -three 



and marble discs set in the backs. There are several old candlesticks of 
silver, beautifully engraved, also some of brass. The old vestments used 
in Mission days are still preserved, but no longer used except on very rare 
occasions. 

In the sacristy is an iron safe in which were kept the sacred vessels. 
It is about three feet wide and four feet high, wrapped with iron bands 
and studded with many knobs. 

There is also a reliquary carved out of wood, gaudily painted and dis- 
tinctively Indian. It contains several relics of the saints, including some 
pieces of the bones from the catacombs of Rome. On the back is a list 
of the contents in Fr. Serra's handwriting. The record books, written 
by Fr. Serra and the other Padres, contain records of all baptisms, mar- 
riages, etc., and are carefully preserved. A few old paintings are also to 
be seen. These relics were brought from San Carlos Mission at Carmel 
when it was vacated. 

The oak under which Mass was celebrated when Viscaino visited Mon- 
terey in 1602 and by Fr. Serra in 1770, is said to have been the one 
which grew in the southeast corner of the present Presidio. A cross was 
erected under this tree on the centenary, June 3, 1870. This cross has 
recently been replaced by a granite monument. The tree died a few 
years ago and the trunk was taken to the rear of the church and set up 
with an appropriate tablet at its base. 

In the Presidio may also be seen a statue of Fr. Serra stepping from a 
boat, with Bible in hand. 



Page twenty-four 



Description of San Carlos Church 
At Carmel 



FROM Ocean Avenue, the main thoroughfare of Carmel, San Carlos 
Street wends its way in a southerly direction, through the trees, for 
about half a mile, where the edge of the pine forest is reached. At 
this point, peermg over the crest of the hill, is seen the moss-covered dome 
of the Mission. A few steps further and the whole building bursts into 
view. In accordance with the custom of the Franciscans, a most favorable 
site was selected. The Mission, facing due east, is situated on a slight emi- 
nence overlooking the Carmel Valley, through which winds the Carmel River 
on its way to the beautiful blue waters of the bay not far distant. 

This sacred old structure was built by the Indians, under the direction 
of the Padres. Large blocks of the chalk rock, which is plentiful in this 
region, were utilized in constructing the church. Four years was the time 
required to bring the work to completion. The walls are about four feet 
thick at the bottom^ and are so built as to make a graceful curve toward 
the top on the inside. There are three buttresses on each side. These 
held the curved arches which supported the low tiled roof. This roof, 
having fallen in, was replaced at the time of the restoration, by the present 
shingle roof, the available funds not being sufficient to cover the cost of 
replacing the tiled roof. The old roof tiles were nearly all broken, but a 
few remaining ones cover the roof of a barn in the Mission orchard nearby, 
while others are probably resting on some of the old adobes in Monterey. 

The building is quite large. The interior dimensions are as follows: 
Length, from entrance to rear wall, 165 feet; width, at base of walls, 29 
feet; height, from floor to ceiling, 40 feet. 

Page twenty-five 



Originally, large red square tiles covered the floor. Nearly all the tiles 
having been destroyed by exposure to the elements, the floor was left for 
the most part of bare earth. In 1907 a concrete floor w^as made, spaced 
off to represent the original tiles. Some of the old tiles w^ere used to pave 
the sanctuary (behind the altar rail), where they may now be seen. 

The only exterior wall in its original state is the one on the north side, 
the others having required a coat of plaster to preserve them. This northern 
wall is of a rich cream color, with patches of bright green moss; the whole 
aspect denoting age. The wall is strengthened by six buttresses, two of 
them reinforced with massive bases. Everywhere may be seen disfiguring 
names scratched on the walls by the stupid vandal, who evidently has not 
heard the old saying, "Fools' names, like their faces," etc. 

The front entrance is large and beautifully carved, and above it is a star- 
shaped window. This window is slightly out of plumb, but this, instead 
of detracting, lends interest, and is evidence of having been made with 
primitive implements. Set in the facade, immediately above the window, 
is a small marble slab, reading: "Founded 1 770 — Restored 1884." 

On each corner of the front is a tower, the one on the southern corner, 
surmounted by a dome, held several bells. The northern tower is small 
and probably contained one or two bells. In the large tower are two arched 
openings in the front and one in the side, where the bells hung. In the 
southern openmg is a modern bell, which is rung when services are held. 
The original bells, which were all cracked, were melted and recast into 
new ones, which now hang in the tower of the Monterey church. 

The moss-covered dome is egg-shaped and is surmounted by an iron- 
work cross, said to be the original. The cornices, turrets, and other 
carved stonework are considerably eaten away by the weather. At the 
rear of the tower is a stone stairway leading to the belfry. In 1907 it was 
repaired, being overgrown with weeds and rapidly falling to decay. Arriv- 
ing at the top, we find ourselves in the belfry under the dome. Looking 
up into it may be seen the crude cross-beams and far up near the top a 
lone thong of rawhide hangs, which was used for tying the beams together. 
The only reason it has not been taken by the obnoxious relic thief is on 

Page twentv-six 



account of its inaccessibility. In the wall, by the stairway, is a niche which 
held a carving of wood, representing the Blessed Virgin. It was carved in 
a very crude manner, and, no doubt, by Indian hands. In 1893 the image 
was removed and taken to the church at Monterey, as the exposure to the 
weather was gradually destroying it. There still remains in the top of the 
niche a piece of wood carved in a simple design. 

Immediately on the left, as we enter the church, is the baptistry — a small 
room with elaborately arched ceiling and carved columns. A handsomely 
decorated stone baptismal font stands in the center. This font is modern, 
the origmal one having been "carted off" many years ago. 

Next on the left is a doorway leading into a small side chapel. This 
splendid doorway, with its columns and scrolls, is one of the most striking 
pieces of architecture of the church. On the wall, in the chapel, is the only 
original fresco. It consists of a space about three feet square, which was 
spared by the whitewasher's brush when the Mission was restored. In this 
space is painted a prayer in Spanish. A new frame, on the wall near by, 
contains an English translation. 

The old altar steps are still in place. These are of stone; one of them, 
a single piece almost eleven feet long. The altar itself, as well as practically 
all the furnishings in the church, are new. On the left hand wall in the 
sanctuary is a marble slab, the translation of the Latin being as follows: 

"Here lie the remains 

of the Administrator Rev. Father 

Junipero Serra 

Order of Saint Francis 

Founder of the California Missions 

And President 

Buried in peace. 

Died 28th day of August A. D. 1 784 

And his companions 

Rev. Fathers 

John Crespi 

Julian Lopez 

and 

Francis Lasuen 

May they rest in peace." 

Page twenty-seven 



On the floor may be seen the stone slabs covering the tombs. 

An arched doorway of simple design leads from the altar to the sacristy. 
This is quite a large room, one of the walls of which contains a massive 
lavatory, consisting of double basins cut out of stone. 

The pulpit rests on a base of stone projecting from the wall near the 
altar and is reached by a wide stairway from the sacristy. The woodwork 
is new. 

There is but one of the original window frames remaining and this is 
the first window on the right, as the church is entered. Another piece of 
architecture worthy of note is the spiral stairway in the small tower on the 
right which leads to the choir. This stairway winds upward in a very 
narrow space and the heavy stones are much hollowed out by the countless 
number of feet which have passed over themi. 

Inside the church, on the floor, may be seen some of the old woodwork 
hewn from cypress trees. 

Scattered about in the immediate vicinity are the fast-crumbling adobe 
walls of the living apartments, store-houses and other buildings which were 
connected with the Mission. These adobes will probably entirely disappear 
within a very few years, as instead of preserving them some have actually 
been pulled down and used to fill in roads. 

At the right of the church is the cemetery. The only indication of graves 
being a few mounds marked by piles of loose stones and rotting sticks T he 
cemetery, no doubt, extended into the field adjoining and even at this late 
date medals and other relics are occasionally found when the land is being 
plowed. During the construction of a new road a basin made of the 
yellow chalk rock was unearthed and may now be seen at the Carmel News 
Company. 

It is the intention to replace the tiled roof when sufficient means are at 
hand and a fund is now being raised for this purpose. The parish priest 
will gratefully receive donations for this worthy cause. 



Page twenty-eight 



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Original Painting of Prater on Wall at Carmel 




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vr«n.i: ?.i>« loiic.n K.ivc* 

11. It. P. P. 

U O .\.A A 1 S fllKSPX 

.Jl JLI AM LOPEZ 

UT 

FJlAAClStI LASUHN . 



Tombstone of Fr. Serra and 
Companions 




O.Corazonde Jesos. 

Sierepre ardtt y resplandccn 

f <^ el ■Aamio'la 
dcl'j amo I diviiio. 

Alabemos ilCorazon Je Jesus. 



English Translation 
of Above Prayer 

Page twenty-nine 



Activities of the Present Day 

At Carmel 



AT THE present time Mass is held at the San Carlos Mission at 
Carmel on the fourth Sunday of each month at 10:30 A. M. 
On San Carlos Day, November 4, a grand fiesta always takes 
place, as has been the custom since the founding of the Mission. On this 
occasion there is a large attendance, made up of Mexicans and Spaniards 
from afar as well as the regular parishioners and a goodly number of tour- 
ists and others. High Mass is sung and the customary Spanish sermon is 
delivered, the church for this occasion being elaborately decorated with pine 
trees and quantities of bright colored flowers. 

After Mass all form in a procession around the church, a relic and 
statue of San Carlos being carried in the lead. During the procession a 
hymn is also sung in his honor. 

The religious services being completed, a beef is usually barbecued, of 
which all who attend are invited to partake. 

At any time visitors may obtain entrance to the church by calling at the 
keeper's home nearby and paying a small fee. 

On July 4, 1911, a Pageant was given at Carmel, representing the 
historical incidents connected with the founding of the Mission. This was 
enacted by a large number of the townspeople and others, in an ideal place 
among the pines, the scenes being presented in a manner most realistic. Sev- 
eral thousand people were present at this celebration and it is the intention 
to hold a similar event every year on this date. 

At Monterey 

San Carlos Church at Monterey being regularly used as the parish 

church. Mass is held every morning at 7:30 o'clock and on Sundays at 

8:15 and 10:30. Visitors will be shown the church and relics by 
applying at the rectory next door. 

Page thirty 



Che 



Hymn to San Carlos 



I. 

We come to thee, oh happy Saint, 
To claim thy care and love; 

To beg thy guidance through this life. 
To endless bliss above. 

Oh pray for us, San Carlos, 

For dangers hover near; 
Oh pray that God may give us strength 

To conquer every fear. 

II. 

While in the rosy dawn of youth. 

To God thy heart was given. 
And true thro' life thy spotless soul 

Mid suffering soared to heaven. 
III. 
Thy purity has won for thee 

A crown of fadeless light. 
Oh! may its radiance shine on us 

And cheer the gloom of night. 

IV. 

Oh ! pray for us, oh happy Saint, 

While on the sea of life. 
We struggle with the winds and waves. 

Oh! aid us in the strife. 
V. 

And when we've triumphed over sin 
And death's dread hour is nigh. 

Oh ! pray that God may angels send 
To bear our souls on high. 



Page thirty-one 



The Midnight Mass 

With permission of R. E. White 



/. 

Of the mission church San Carlos, 

Builded by Carmelo's Bay, 
There remains an ivied ruin 

That is crumbHng fast away. 
In its tower the owls find shelter. 

In its sanctuary grow 
Rankest weeds above the earth mounds. 

And the dead find rest below. 

1. 

Still, by peasants at Carmelo, 

Tales are told and songs are sung 
Of Junipero, the Padre, 

In the sweet Castilian tongue: 
Telling how each year he rises 

From his grave the mass to say. 
In the midnight, mid the ruins. 

On the eve of Carlos' day. 

And they tell when, aged and feeble. 

Feeling that his end was nigh. 
To the Mission of San Carlos 

Padre Serra came to die; 
And he lay upon a litter 

That Franciscan friars bore. 
And he bade them rest a moment 

At the cloister's open door. 



Page thirty-two 



/ 

And the grandsire, and the grandam. 

And their children march along. 
And they know not one another 

In that weird, unearthly throng. 
And the youth and gentle maiden. 

They who loved in days of yore, 
Walk together now as strangers. 

For the dead love nevermore. 

7 

In the church now all are gathered. 

And not long have they to wait; 
From his grave the Padre rises. 

Midnight mass to celebrate. 
First he blesses all assembled. 

Soldiers, Indians, acolytes; 
Then he bows before the altar. 

And begins the mystic rites. 
/O 
When the Padre sings the Sanctus, 

And the Host is raised on high. 
Then the bells up in the belfry. 

Swung by spirits, make reply; 
And the drums roll, and the soldiers 

In the air a volley fire. 
While the Salutaris rises 

Grandly from the phantom choir. 
// 
"Ite, missa est," is spoken 

At the dawning of the day. 
And the pageant strangely passes 

From the ruins sere and gray; 
And Junipero, the Padre, 

Lying down, resumes his sleep. 
And the tar-weeds, rank and noisome. 

O'er his grave luxuriant creep. 

Then he gazed upon the landscape 
That in beauty lay unrolled. 

And he blessed the land as Francis 
Blessed Asisi's town of old; 



Page thirty -three 



And he spoke: "A hundred masses 
I will sing, if still life's guest, 

That the blessing I have given 
On the land may ever rest." 

Ere a mass was celebrated. 

Good Junipero had died. 
And they laid him in the chancel. 

On the altar's gospel side. 
But each year the Padre rises 

From his grave the mass to say. 
In the midnight, mid the ruins. 

On the eve of Carlos' day. 

Then the sad souls, long years buried. 

From their lowly graves arise. 
And, as if doom's trump had sounded. 

Each assumes his mortal guise; 
And they come from San Juan's Mission, 

From St. Francis by the bay. 
From the Mission San Diego, 

And the Mission San Jose. 
7 
With their gaudy painted banners. 

And their flambeaux burning bright. 
In a long procession come they 

Through the darkness and the night; 
Singing hymns and swinging censers, 

Dead folks' ghosts, — they onward pass 
To the ivy-covered ruins. 

To be present at the mass. 
13- 
And the lights upon the altar 

And the torches cease to burn. 
And the vestments and the banners 

Into dust and ashes turn; 
And the ghostly congregation 

Cross themselves, and, one by one, 
Into thin air swiftly vanish. 

And the midnight mass is done. 



Page thirty-four 



Sr^H^J GUIDE BOOK 

Sent Postpaid to an\) address for 35 Cents 



Carmel News Company, caV/Trn/a 

Carmel Livery and Teaming Co. 

C. O. GOOLD. Manager 

Teaming of All Kinds 

Rigs of any size furnished for all points of interest 
Telephone Suburban 44 Special care for transient stock 

PI n i^ Inn Carmel-by-the-Sea 
ine inn . . California 

The Winter and 
Summer Resort 

Steam Heat Moderate Terms 

ylutomobile meets all trains at Monterey 

Address, Manager, Carmel, Cal. 

Page thirty-five 



^^^ 25 im 
Carmel-by-the-Sea Z 



Nature has lavished on Carmel-by- 

le-Sea its best—in beaches, in trees, 

in mountains, in historical surroundings, in climate. These houses show that the 

citizens are in full harmony wath the keynote given by nature. The town now 

has 400 houses or thereabouts; of these more than 200 have been designed 

by architects who attempted to have the improvements fit the local surroundings. 

Perhaps someone may differ with them as to the complete fittingness of 

the result in one or more particular spots, but no one will gainsay that the 

improvements as a whole make it A town with a temperament wholly its own. 

The town is on a firm substantial business basis. Every comfort, every 

luxury possible in a community far enough away from railroad transportation to 

warrant that the charms of nature are practically as produced by the Creator, is 

available at the local stores at moderate prices. 

For Particulars Address J. F. DEVENDORF, Manager Carmel Development Co. 
Carmel-by'the-Sea, Monterey Co., Cal. 

Artistic Photographs 

The Mission of San Carlos 

Including all shown in this Booklet 

The Historic Buildings of Monterey 

And a large selection of scenic photos 
of this locality at prices from 25 cents up 

Kodaks and Supplies Post Cards 

Souvenirs and Curios Stationery 

Souvenir Coffee Spoons of Carmel Mission, Sterling Silver . $1 .00 each, postpaid 

Souvenir Tea Spoons of Carmel Mission, Sterling Silver . . $2.00 each, postpaid 

Carmel News Company 

Carmel, Cahfornia 

Page ihirly-six 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



III III III! ill 

013 704 208 3 



Wcybret-Lec Co.. Printers 
Monterey. Cal. 



